Cometa Brings a Permanent Mexican Restaurant to Carousel

Located on Charlotte Street, the revamped space by Ed and Ollie Templeton introduces a fresh take on Mexican dining—paired with a dedicated margarita menu.

Grilled lobster with chintextle and smoked butter

Since 2014, Carousel has cultivated a devoted audience through its alternating chef residencies. Brothers Ed and Ollie Templeton are establishing permanent roots with Cometa, a Mexican restaurant overseen by José Lizarralde Serralde in the kitchen.

The Scene

Charlotte Street in Fitzrovia boasts an abundance of exceptional restaurants, several of which are Michelin-listed, Bib Gourmand, or starred, with scarcely any gaps between them. Carousel is a standout with its residency-first eating philosophy. After comprehensive renovations of the wine bar, Cometa is their inaugural permanent installation.

The interiors at Cometa were designed in-house by the Templeton brothers

The brothers undertook the makeover independently, resulting in a dramatic eating area segmented by expansive booths. Blue metal trough lamps suspend low above, illuminating the tables with a subdued ambiance, complemented by a distinctly modern Afrocuban playlist, as a bar extends along the rear wall. Behind this bar resides a diverse array of mezcal and tequila bottles. The remaining walls have simple white-painted masonry adorned with vibrant artworks by American painter Todd Bienvenu.

Left to right: co-founder and chef-patron Ollie Templeton, head chef, José Lizarralde Serralde, sous chef, Alejandra Juarez

The Beverages

Although the wine bar is no longer in existence, there remains a strong appreciation for an excellent wine list at Cometa. A meticulous selection of red, white, rosé, and orange wines is available by the glass; nevertheless, it is the tequila and mezcal cocktails that truly excel. The menu features three margaritas – the house, the traditional, and the hot; but, they could effectively offer just one, as trays adorned with chili hues circulate with increasing frequency during the evening's service. Classic cocktails also feature innovative variations. The Cometa Martini is a cocktail composed of 60% gin and 40% vodka, featuring gin produced in a smoky mezcal style. Upon tasting, it is refreshing and not excessively herbal; orange bitters evoke a connection to Mexico. The beverages are presented on aesthetically pleasing mats in vibrant summer hues, accompanied by sociable bartenders.

The Cuisine

Anticipate supper to progress from crudos (raw and cured appetizers) and otros (table starters) to platos (grilled dishes) and postres (desserts). Group unanimity is necessary; it is a tiny plate concept, yet there is minimal danger of error. All elements are aesthetically vibrant. The scallops are presented with sunstone coral, complimented by a ruby red guacachile tiradito sauce; the sea bream, enhanced by a delectable sesame sauce, is served with tostaditos resembling ash.

Scallop and aguacahile tiradito

The standout dish is undoubtedly its crab chilpachole rice. This is a robust and smoky seafood stew that delivers a gradual heat, complemented by a dollop of smoked eel cream in its core. A strong contender is the chintextle grilled lobster accompanied by a seafoam of smoked butter; it is advisable to order the chips to absorb the varied sauces. Similar to the overhead soundtrack, these foods represent nuanced pastiches of Mexican culture and cuisine, exhibiting a more distinct and regionally grounded essence. The menu lacks overt clichés (notably absent are sombrero-clad motifs reminiscent of Chiquito), requiring a degree of confidence from customers who are less acquainted with the culinary landscape.

Desserts are exquisite, and the citrus bonanza is a triumph of vitamin C, including layers of sorbet above a creamier buttermilk ice cream accompanied by a tangy bergamot curd. The tempo at which dessert is served is appropriately measured and entirely unhurried. It is noteworthy that Cometa's menu is comparatively low in carbohydrates, and aside from the chips—which are rather excellent—there is minimal food to induce lethargy by the conclusion of the meal. Allowing space for one final margarita.

Overview

• Cometa is in Fitzrovia at 19-23 Charlotte Street, London W1T 1RL.

• The executive chef is José Lizarralde Serralde.

• Type of cuisine: Contemporary Mexican.

• Dress code: There is no formal dress requirement, and patrons typically wear smart-casual attire.

• Price range: Starters commence at £16.50, sharing plates vary from £16 to £60, and desserts begin at £9.

• Cometa caters to vegan and gluten-free dietary requirements.

• Walk-ins permitted: Indeed, to ensure safety, please reserve a table.

• Reserve at opentable.com. Explore more at carousel-london.com.