Dorian: A Highly Demanded Restaurant in London

Does the West London hotspot merit the acclaim it receives?

Numerous restaurants in the capital assert their status as one of 'London's trendiest' at any time, although few can boast the distinction of having Victoria Beckham name a handbag in their honor. Upon departing from his position at the two-Michelin-starred Ikoyi, head chef and co-owner Max Coen partnered with Chris D’Sylva, renowned for Notting Hill Fish + Meat Shop and Supermarket of Dreams, to establish Dorian. Coen envisioned a dining experience that would allow patrons to savor his innovative culinary approach within a more relaxed bistro setting. Given a career that includes tenures at Frantzen and Restaurant Story, it is unsurprising that the cuisine at Dorian showcases innovative cooking, bold flavors, and the incorporation of ingredients rarely found on London menus.

Established in 2022 among the burgeoning Notting Hill culinary landscape, the West London restaurant has rapidly gained prominence, securing a Michelin star and a reputation as a premier destination in under five years.

Upon visiting Dorian early on a Monday night, a strong energy permeates the atmosphere, with fragments of animated discussion intermingling with the throbbing beat-driven music that fills the air. Banquette seating and black-and-white tiled flooring contribute to the bistro ambiance; nonetheless, this is a Michelin-starred establishment, and the menu is indicative of that—featuring a two-bite red prawn and pea rosti on the appetizers menu for £20—along with the clientele. Groups of stylish young individuals elevate their martinis, while opposite us, a woman receives a birthday gift in a conspicuous orange box, eliciting jealous looks from other tables.

Nearly every table is indulging in one of the restaurant's renowned wood-fired steaks (about 300 are sold weekly): a meticulously prepared cut of meat, carved from the bone, resting in its own sumptuous juices. Coen excels at fire cooking, and one of my favorite dishes of the evening was the exceptionally rich and delectable charred sourdough toast adorned with chicken liver parfait, marmalade, and sliced strawberries.

We observe an array of intriguing flavor combinations, including girolles enveloped in nutty Sparkenhoe cheese accompanied by peppery Japanese mizuna leaves to balance the richness; charred lobster tail paired with broad beans and blood orange gazpacho; and arguably the most audacious dish of the evening, a skewered pigeon talon – complete with nails – served with raspberry hot sauce and peanut butter, an elevated interpretation of the classic PB&J. For dessert, we indulge in a traditional yet delectable warm skillet-baked cookie accompanied by vanilla ice cream.

Location: Notting Hill at 105-107 Talbot Road, London, W11 2AT

Chef: Max Coen is Head Chef and Co-owner of Dorian

Cuisine: Modern British.

Price range: from £19 to £65 for small dishes, mains start at £35 and go up to £175 for the t-bone

Vegan and gluten-free options: Yes

Reserve via sevenrooms.com or call 02039249246