Chef Chantelle Nicholson of Apricity: 'I Can’t Watch The Bear'

Nicholson is advancing her impact-oriented initiatives by participating in Belu Water’s new campaign, Served with Purpose, which unites hospitality leaders committed to generating a positive effect.

Zodee Media

What does it signify to be a conscious chef in 2025? Merely offering a seasonal cuisine is insufficient; contemporary restaurants must exert further effort to have a significant impact. Chantelle Nicholson is at the forefront of this domain, recognized as one of the UK's most dynamic culinary personalities. Originating from New Zealand, she refined her skills at several prestigious London restaurants before inaugurating her inaugural solo establishment, Tredwells, in 2014. In 2022, she focused on a new venture: the low-waste, environmentally conscious restaurant Apricity in Mayfair. It has achieved significant acclaim, receiving enthusiastic reviews from critics and earning a Michelin Green Star. Recently, Nicholson inaugurated The Cordia Collective, a café, bakery, and restaurant in West Sussex, focused on her regenerative farming principles.

Chantelle Nicholson Regarding Regenerative Restaurants, Thai Gastronomy, and Culinary Trends

When did your interest in food initially emerge?

Having been raised in New Zealand, I was consistently exposed to exceptional fruit, which I believe made it a natural inclination. My family members were all competent cooks, preparing all meals from scratch at home. In New Zealand, we exclusively consumed packed lunches, necessitating that we prepared our meals daily as children. Personally, I concluded that to obtain a satisfactory meal, I must prepare it myself.

What is your culinary philosophy?

It is a celebration of food, acknowledging its intrinsic quality, while striving to enhance it with utmost respect for those engaged in its cultivation, production, and growth.

In what ways did you envision Apricity distinguishing itself from other restaurants?

From my viewpoint, it was somewhat of an experiment to ascertain whether circumstances may differ from my upbringing within the sector. The primary focus areas were the team dynamics and interpersonal relations, in addition to our guests. The accurate value was provided to the crew, which is undeniably vital for any hospitality enterprise. We aimed to establish a circular, mutually beneficial connection with the suppliers and explore its functional dynamics for the advantage of both parties.

Additionally, examining all inputs and outputs of the eatery. How do we enhance the positive and diminish the lesser positive? From a waste standpoint, this encompasses food waste, time, electricity, and water. We strive to simplify our efforts to maximize beneficial effect while providing an exceptional experience for our guests.

Do you possess a preferred food from the menu?

One of my favorites is undoubtedly our butterhead lettuce. It is a hydroponically cultivated, vertically produced entire head of lettuce, filled with crispy kale, garnished with miso aioli, and accompanied by pickled shallots and seasonal ingredients. What I appreciate about it is its inherent humility. When I urge somebody to order it, they regard me with mild perplexity and remark: it is merely a lettuce. However, they assert that it is not merely a lettuce. It has also been cultivated extensively in London, hence I believe the entire process encapsulates the essence of Apricity.

What constitutes a 'sustainable' restaurant in 2025?

This is a compelling inquiry. I perceive that the term sustainability has diminished in its allure. I have consistently seen that our inclination is not towards mere sustainability, but rather towards enhancement; so, I am passionate about discussing the regenerative attitude. For me, it involves examining the comprehensive strategy about their provenance and sourcing practices. What actions are they undertaking with their teams? What outputs are they producing? What is the status of their waste metric? What is their projected energy consumption? To what extent are they investigating the origins of their supply chain? And endeavoring to navigate cautiously in regions previously traversed.

Where do you derive inspiration for your culinary creations?

The majority derives from produce, the seasons, and the ability to perceive through smell, sight, selection, and taste. Subsequently, I drew inspiration from others; I was fortunate to be in Lisbon, Portugal, a few weeks ago, collaborating with SEM Restaurant. Being in the presence of like-minded individuals was truly motivating, observing their actions and methodologies.

Which cuisine trends do you currently appreciate or detest?

It is delightful to observe the abundance of new vegetables currently available and to commemorate the vibrant colors that begin to emerge. I advocate for increased support for domestic farmers, as they exert much effort yet often struggle to compete with large global businesses. One aspect I dislike is when it is overly commercialized and saturated with ultra-processed foods (UPFs). It is gratifying to observe individuals gaining a deeper comprehension of the contents of their diet.

What is your preferred recipe for a dinner party?

It is highly contingent upon the season. Currently, asparagus is in its prime, hence it must be included. Subsequently, grilling serves as the ideal choice for the main course. I enjoy grilling vegetables, such as asparagus or cabbage, along with some local meat. Pavlova season has arrived, with strawberries, raspberries, and elderflower, allowing for the enjoyment of these delightful ingredients in the sunshine.

What is the most unforgettable dish you have ever experienced?

I consumed a pineapple red curry in Thailand. I recall observing it on the menu and contemplating my uncertainty; however, the flavor, the complexity, and the profundity were extraordinary. Last year, I was employed as a chef at an exquisite restaurant named Soneva Kiri. Access the restaurant via boat, navigating through the mangroves; the entire experience is spectacular. A meal encompasses far more than merely the sustenance; it embodies a multitude of experiences simultaneously.

What is your all-time favorite restaurant in London?

I have a profound affection for Supawan, as it is Thai cuisine - there is a shared element here!

What activities do you engage in to unwind?

Vacationing is delightful; I adore the water. For me, immersion in nature is essential for relaxation. Whether foraging or reading a book in the sun, it is the authentic connection to nature that restores my sense of belonging.

Have you ever viewed any culinary programs such as The Bear?

I experience much ambivalence with them, to be candid. I grew up in kitchens where such behavior was prevalent, and I believe our business has seen significant challenges. We require fresh entrants, although I perceive it is not particularly appealing. Having diligently endeavored to alter that perception and improve the functionality of my kitchen, I find it somewhat exasperating that such representations persist in the media. While I recognize that many individuals appreciate them, they provide an insightful perspective on the functioning of some kitchens; however, I have yet to locate the opportunity to view it.

Essential strategies for enhancing eco-friendliness in home cooking.

The most important aspect is to purchase only what is necessary. Upon purchasing it, endeavor to comprehend its origin. I understand that not everyone has access to a farmer's market or local food; yet, I encourage greater awareness of this issue. Upon recognizing that your herbs may originate from Ethiopia, you begin to question their necessity. If you purchase what is necessary, it is hoped that you would not squander it.

Moreover, it is a momentary reflection on the multitude of individuals who have contributed to delivering the ingredients for your culinary endeavor. It perplexes me that the price of a banana is what it is, considering the numerous individuals involved and the distance it has traveled. It demonstrates proper respect for all individuals inside that chain, which inherently discourages wastefulness. A common sense approach suggests that if something seems excessively inexpensive, there is likely a justification for it. Food should not be inexpensive; it ought to be affordable, yet not cheap. It aims to demonstrate respect for those who provide us with food.

Chantelle Nicholson is a Tastemaker for Belu's Served with Purpose campaign.