Dr. Johnny Drain, 'Walter White of Flavor,' Discusses the Fermentation Craze

Fermented foods, such as freshly brewed kombucha, creamy kefir, and pungent kimchi, are currently among the most prominent health fads. Dr. Johnny Drain, a chef, scientist, and author, has extensively explored this subject for numerous years.

Image: Lateef

Upon completing his studies in materials science, Dr. Drain resolved to focus his career on fermentation, collaborating with chefs, farmers, bartenders, designers, and fashion businesses to innovate culinary approaches. He has conducted a study project for Copenhagen's Noma, assisted Douglas McMaster in establishing the zero-waste venue Silo, and traversed the globe to sample the world's most unusual fermented foods, ranging from diminutive icefish in Japan to decade-old butter in Morocco.

Dr. Drain has disseminated his findings in a new publication, Adventures in Fermentation, which he elaborates on below.

Can Fermentation Salvage the Planet? We consulted with expert Dr. Johnny Drain.

What is fermentation?

In essence, fermentation is the process of utilizing microorganisms for cooking. Typically, we utilize heat for cooking; we toast bread, fry eggs, and boil noodles. The heat alters the color, texture, and flavor. Possibly the nutritional attributes or the safety of the food. During fermentation, we employ certain microbes—bacteria, yeasts, and molds—rather than heat to achieve the process.

When did your interest in the topic originally arise?

My earliest recollections of fermentation involve preparing yogurt with my grandmother throughout childhood and attempting to bake bread (albeit of subpar quality) in primary school. My genuine curiosity emerged during my tenure at Noma’s Nordic Food Lab, where I investigated the feasibility of producing aged butters reminiscent of aged cheeses such as comté and parmesan. It was at that moment I realized that almost all of my preferred foods—butter, cheese, bread, miso paste, alcohol, as well as coffee and chocolate—were fermented.

What is the significance of fermentation for the future of our planet?

Fermentation possesses the remarkable ability to convert what is often regarded as trash into healthy, delectable, and valuable food, elevating food leftovers to culinary prominence. I have been instrumental in developing this methodology, collaborating with notable establishments such as Doug McMaster's Silo, the inaugural zero-waste restaurant globally, and SEM in Lisbon, where fish bones are repurposed into fish sauce and meat trimmings are transformed into richly flavored meat garums. Numerous companies around are currently using this on a wider scale. This principle of optimizing resource utilization and closing loops can be generally applied to the creation of food systems that regenerate rather than deplete the globe.

What factors have contributed to the current surge in the popularity of fermentation?

It addresses three contemporary desires: wellness, cultural identity, and customization. Individuals need nutritious food that, in response to the backlash against ultra-processed foods, also evokes historic methods and eras of food production. Ferments encompass all these elements, and home fermentation is particularly suited for unique interpretations, making it ideal for social media display.

Primary health advantages of consuming fermented foods?

Fermented foods provide significant health benefits, particularly for gastrointestinal and cognitive functions. Initially, they may be rich in probiotics that support your microbiome, enhancing digestion, immunity, and potentially mood. Secondly, fermentation enhances the bioavailability of nutrients in our food, facilitating greater absorption of vitamins and minerals by the body. Additionally, the consistent use of fermented foods may diminish inflammation, so promoting long-term health and vitality. Consider fermentation as a delightful kind of self-care for both your gastrointestinal health and mental well-being. The optimal strategy is to consistently consume a diverse array of fermented foods.

In what manner does fermentation enhance the flavor of dishes?

Fermentation is an expedited method for enhancing the compounds that contribute to the palatability of our food: diverse flavor molecules. The bacteria utilized in fermentation naturally generate substances that are either delectable, such as the tangy lactic acid in kimchi or sauerkraut, or otherwise enticing, like the ethanol produced by yeasts in wine or beer.

These microorganisms can also synthesize enzymes that decompose larger food molecules into smaller, more palatable ones. For instance, during the production of miso, bigger protein molecules are degraded into smaller amino acids that deliver a savory, umami flavor.

Through these diverse pathways, frequently occurring simultaneously in a single fermentation, our microbial partners enrich our foods with flavor-enhancing chemicals.

What is the most peculiar food you have ever consumed?

It is essential to note that what appears peculiar to me may be entirely mundane for another; yet, having been raised in the landlocked Midlands, consuming fermented whale mouth was unconventional and surprising. Deep-fried, dry-aged piranha in Paraguay as well.

Describe your experience of being apprehended at airport security.

The complete and unexpurgated story is lengthier; nevertheless, I was essentially detained at Gatwick when returning from South America. My baggage contained the instruments of my profession: vacuum-sealed bags of off-white powders (yeasts and bacteria) and several kilograms of viscous brown pastes (miso), in addition to temperature probes, pH meters, and essentially a complete chemistry set.

The situation was exacerbated by my recent preparation of kombucha using coca leaves, a substance still utilized by numerous indigenous groups. Ultimately, I triggered several alarms and was required to provide an explanation, in addition to undergoing a full-body X-ray.

What is a simple fermentation project suitable for a novice to undertake at home?

I recommend beginning with sour cream. Acquire around 600ml of retail cream, pour it into a bowl, and add a small tub of crème fraîche, typically around 200g, ensuring it indicates 'contains living cultures' on the packaging. Combine thoroughly, cover with a lid or plastic wrap, and allow to rest at ambient temperature. After two days of inactivity, you will obtain a rich, tangy, buttery soured cream. You can transform it into butter or, my preference, for a straightforward dessert, portion it into bowls, freeze for one to two hours, and then serve with fresh berries and a sprinkling of dark chocolate.

In addition to fermentation, what processes are significant in the realm of sustainable food?

All preservation procedures, such as vinegar pickling, drying, salting, and smoking, are effective methods for extending the longevity of the food we cultivate. Presently, around 40 percent of all edible biomass generated is wasted. Therefore, increasing its usage is an obvious decision. Transitioning from monoculture to polyculture and regenerative agricultural practices is, in my opinion, a crucial advancement.

What current developments are observable in the food industry?

The emergence of GLP-1 is, whether one approves or not, transforming dietary practices, driving the demand for smaller portions that maintain substantial flavor and satisfaction. Mycelium-derived proteins are rapidly expanding, providing sustainable, animal-free options. We are witnessing creativity in substituting cherished yet problematic ingredients, including chocolate, the manufacturing of which frequently entails child labor, with more ethical and sustainable alternatives.

Fermentation and gastrointestinal health have undoubtedly become mainstream. Anticipate the emergence of products such as milk kefir alongside kombucha as common store items. Simultaneously, non-alcoholic beverages are thriving, evolving in sophistication and intricacy to compete with their alcoholic equivalents.

Ultimately, interest in international ingredients and culinary traditions will persist. Filipino cuisine, specifically, along with regional Chinese cuisines, is gaining greater recognition in the UK.

You have collaborated with restaurants globally. What impressed you the most?

I have collaborated with numerous prominent restaurants and pubs, accumulating an extensive number of Michelin stars. Selecting even a preliminary list is challenging, although Mirazur in the south of France on the Côte d'Azur is profoundly enchanting. Silo in London exemplifies the remarkable nature of Doug's zero-waste mission and the significant influence his work has exerted on fellow chefs during my acquaintance and collaboration with him.

Adventures in Fermentation is available now