Explore One Of The World’s Oldest Cognac Houses - Martell

Martell, established in 1715, is the oldest maker of Cognac, coinciding with the final year of Louis XIV's reign.

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Cognac

Martell occupies a vast location in the centre of Cognac, a historic town situated beside the grey-brown Charente, flooded by December's winter rains. The historic town core, constructed from locally sourced stone resembling rich double cream, is situated on a hill overlooking the river where the castle formerly stood; only a solitary bastion remains of its previous magnitude and fortitude.

Cognac possesses a royal affiliation; François I, King of France and a contemporary of Henry VIII, was born there in 1494. Until 2001, all of Martell's cognac was bottled in a 1930s structure on the premises, and numerous barrels were also matured there. In that year, all cognac establishments relocated their activities from the town at the behest of municipal officials to mitigate the fire risk to the local populace. The abandoned vaults now stand vacant, serving as a cold, resonant testament to three centuries of activity, their walls stained with torula, the yeast-like organism resulting from the evaporation of ageing brandy. In the chai de mariage – blending basement – a dual row of substantial wood vats, formerly utilised for cognac mixing, has been preserved as a memorial, filled with spirit to maintain them, serving as a silent, stationary sentinel of Cognac’s history.

What is the process of Cognac production?

The manufacturing of cognac, similar to that of champagne, relies on an extensive network of tiny local producers. Cognac encompasses around 80,000 hectares of vineyards, rendering it the largest white wine appellation in France. Six distinct grape types are authorised; nevertheless, 98 percent of the vines consist of ugni blanc, the most disease-resistant of the six. Martell possesses over 450 hectares of vineyards, which contribute only three percent of the grapes necessary for its production; the majority of the required grapes are sourced from about 1,450 independent local growers, both large and small.

Certain producers have provided Martell for generations. Similarly, Martell possesses several distilleries but enhances its own eaux-de-vie with spirits sourced from 600 more distilleries, both major and small, all inside the appellation. The production of cognac is a reductive process: 2500 litres of wine yields around 550 litres of useful spirit, with half of that volume lost for every thirty years of barrel ageing. Conversely, distillation amplifies the wine's taste tenfold.

The Cognac appellation requirements mandate that the eaux-de-vie undergo double distillation and be matured for at least two years in French oak barrels. Martell employs casks crafted from premium sessile French wood, which gradually imparts its aromas as the eau de vie ages, sourced from the renowned forests of Bercé and Tronçais.

The amalgamation of eaux de vie into cognac is a unique ability that is both inherent and acquired. Christophe Valtaud asserts that 95 percent of a blender's task relies on olfactory perception; he states, 'Cognac is, for me, a scent rather than a spirit.' The wines that provide the foundation of cognac are influenced by the fluctuations of weather throughout each growing season, leading to significant variability. The blender's role is to mitigate this effect by creating a cognac that is consistent year after year. At Martell, this activity occurs in a contemporary, glass-enclosed tasting area located within a 19th-century cellar, theatrically illuminated and styled akin to a theatrical set with barrels and bottles.

Martell's New Chateau Dining Experience

The Chateau de Chanteloup, situated near Cognac in the Borderies – the smallest and most esteemed of the Cognac crus – serves as the central hub of the Martell enterprise and was the residence of the Martell family until 1967. The current chateau was constructed in the early 1930s in the Norman architectural style, but its interiors reflect the classic grand French aesthetic. Surrounded by a vast deer park, its tranquil, wooded environment emanates a joie de vivre that has nearly disappeared from contemporary society.

Until recently, the chateau served to host significant corporate guests; nevertheless, it is now welcoming the public with the inauguration of Signature Martell. This is a collaboration between chef Alexandre Mazzia, whose establishment in Marseille, AM par Alexandre Mazzia, has been awarded three Michelin stars, and Martell's cellar master Christophe Valtaud.

The cooperation seeks to illustrate the harmonious pairing of Martell’s cognacs with Mazzia’s innovative cuisine. Mazzia’s cuisine is characterised by its roasted and smoky tastes, spices, and peppers, which are interpreted to unveil the complex nuances of the cognacs. I believe the combination is especially effective in seafood dishes, such red mullet, crab, scallops, mussels, clams, or langoustine. The combination of food and liquor is a bold concept that has also been explored by whisky distillers. While innovation and the questioning of established rules are commendable, I remain unconvinced that neat cognac, regardless of its exquisite flavour, is invariably the optimal pairing for a meal, particularly during lunch, as certain dishes distinctly call for a glass of wine.

Martell is contemporising the perception of its cognacs through the 'Make it with Martell' project. Under the direction of mixologist Rémy Savage, proprietor of London’s A Bar with Shapes for a Name, it presents an array of drinks inspired by Martell’s cognacs. The Théodore is a daring amalgamation of cognac and red wine, while the Cordon Bleu Gourmand is a striking reworking of the traditional French café gourmand, including Cordon Bleu poured over sweetened coffee cooled by an ice cube. It is delectable.