Mastering Culinary Storytelling with Chef James Won

Chef James Won transforms Malaysian gastronomy, progressing from his grandmother's kitchen to the apex of fine dining, marked by innovation and international recognition that reflect his remarkable journey.

Chef James Won

As the architect of Shin’Labo by James Won — the sole establishment in Asia with a Krug Chef’s Table — Chef James Won has elevated Malaysian cuisine to international recognition. His dishes mix the cultural richness of his origin with the accuracy of French haute cuisine and the artistry of Japanese gastronomy. Chef James, having trained in premier 3-star Michelin establishments in France and Japan, has cultivated an extensive comprehension of ingredients and techniques, which he applies at his acclaimed restaurant. Shin’Labo by James Won ardently adopts a farm-to-table ethos, collaborating with Malaysia’s Indigenous tribes in the peninsula to highlight the nation’s abundant biodiversity.

In 2024, Chef James Won received the esteemed Chevalier (Ordre du Mérite Agricole) from the French Republic in acknowledgment of his exceptional achievements to the culinary and hospitality sectors. This knighthood, recognized as one of the foremost distinctions in France, is just below the Legion of Honour and underscores Chef James's exceptional commitment to his profession. The announcement of his distinction as the sole Malaysian in the 21st century to get this honor was made by H.E. Axel Cruau, the French Ambassador to Malaysia, highlighting the importance of this accomplishment. Moreover, Chef James is the only Malaysian among the 21 worldwide winners of the Ordre du Mérite Agricole in 2024. In addition to his achievements, Chef James is a Chevalier, having been knighted by the Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne for his exceptional contributions to the Champagne area. He achieved a historic milestone by becoming the inaugural Malaysian inducted into the esteemed Krug Ambassade Network, so representing his country in the international realm of luxury gastronomy.

Chef James' culinary philosophy is profoundly influenced by the teachings of his grandmother and further honed via his tenure in Michelin-starred restaurants. His dishes honor the integrity of ingredients and the narratives they convey, providing a dining experience that is both sincere and transformative. In addition to his culinary expertise, his impact reaches the luxury sector as an ambassador for The Plan, showcasing premier kitchen and wardrobe designs from PoggenPohl, Ernestomeda, and Porro, as well as for Gaggenau, the esteemed German manufacturer of high-end home equipment. Chef James is the sole returning Hennessy Chef Ambassador for the Hennessy X.O Gastronomy Series and serves as an Adjunct Lecturer at Taylor’s University, Taylor’s Culinary Institute.

Chef James formerly led Enfin by James Won, which became renowned for housing Asia’s sole Krug Chef’s Table and solidified his status as a trailblazer in the fine dining industry.

What motivated your enthusiasm for cooking, and how has it developed over time?

My culinary interest was ignited by my grandmother, who served as my muse and initial tutor. She possessed an exceptional aptitude for discerning the nuances of the dishes she sampled. Regardless of whether they are of European or Asian origin, she consistently astonishes me with her culinary innovations. From an early age, mother imparted to me the significance of recalling flavors and valuing the gifts of nature, a tenet that has remained fundamental to my culinary philosophy. Throughout the years, my culinary skills have refined to emphasize singular ingredients, which are highlighted through various techniques, incorporating surprising layers of flavor that embody cultural diversity and the bounty of nature.

Photo: Bonnie Yap

From whence do you derive inspiration while devising a new dish or menu?

My culinary endeavors frequently commence with an expedition - be it exploring lively markets or foraging in the depths of the bush. Nature serves as my second most significant muse, and I am perpetually attracted to the purity and freshness of ingredients. What fascinates me most is uncovering the quintessence of flavor—comprehending how an ingredient should taste at its utmost pinnacle, when it presents the finest of itself. This bond with the land and its offerings serves as the "ink" I employ to craft my plates, producing dishes that commemorate nature's most exquisite moments.

Photo: Bonnie Yap

Could you recount a notable culinary experience or moment that profoundly impacted your cooking style?

A pivotal culinary experience that profoundly influenced my cooking philosophy occurred when my uncle, confined to bed and restricted to an egg-based diet, requested that I prepare them for him. Notwithstanding his ailment, his gustatory perception and recollection of flavors remained profoundly significant to him - delectability continued to be an essential aspect of his experience. He possessed an exceptional sensitivity to taste and could immediately discern if another individual had prepared the eggs. That incident significantly impacted me, imparting the lesson that even the most basic dish warrants the highest level of attention. It imparted to me the significance of precision, wherein every component on the plate, regardless of its size or simplicity, must have a distinct role. Every element must have a significant purpose in the ultimate amalgamation of flavors, each giving its distinct note to the overall composition. This lesson on concentrating on the details continues to influence my cooking today, molding how I intentionally combine and stack flavors.

How do you reconcile innovation with tradition in your culinary creations?

Harmonizing innovation and tradition in my culinary endeavors resembles traversing a tightrope between the conventional and the avant-garde. Tradition serves as my foundation, providing wisdom, cultural depth, and enduring skills that have withstood the passage of time. Innovation serves as the catalyst for my creativity, enabling me to rejuvenate timeless aspects. I may utilize a venerated ingredient, esteemed through generations, and present it in an entirely novel manner employing contemporary techniques, or amalgamate it with unforeseen flavors that enhance depth and complexity.

It is a meticulous process in which I preserve the essence of the original meal while enhancing it by including additional textures and feelings. Each plate narrates a tale that connects the past and the present, with every item fulfilling a certain function, enhancing the ultimate manifestation of flavors. The objective is to not only astonish but also to preserve the core of tradition while expanding the limits of possibility — a synthesis of heritage and innovative artistry.

What essential talents or attributes should prospective cooks develop to thrive in the culinary industry?

Aspiring cooks must recognize that patience transcends mere technique mastery; it embodies a virtue integral to the comprehensive process of refining their craft. Through relentless repetition, cooks cultivate both muscle memory and an instinctive "flavour library" that informs their inventiveness. With time, this patience enables you to hone your taste, discerning the nuances of components and their interactions. Mastery is achieved via repetition; nevertheless, genuine artistry arises from the comprehension that every effort and refinement contributes to a greater whole.

Humility is also essential, as the kitchen serves as an ongoing educational environment. Regardless of your knowledge, there is perpetually more to acquire, and maintaining humility facilitates the absorption of wisdom from others. Ultimately, understanding your origins grounds your culinary practices. It is essential to honor the traditions and heritage that influence the food with which you engage. This foundation provides your work with authenticity and depth, allowing for innovation while maintaining a connection to what is fundamental. Patience, humility, and reverence for one's culinary heritage are the foundations of a chef's enduring success.

What obstacles have you encountered in your culinary career, and how have they influenced your development as a chef?

A major hurdle I had in my culinary career was the late discovery of my passion. At that point, numerous colleagues possessed years of experience, resulting in my perception of commencing from a disadvantage. My inadequate skill in French compounded my inability to comprehend the intricate nuances of French culture and customs. I soon recognized that gastronomy transcends cooking; it is an art de vivre, intricately interwoven with the essence of life, art, and collective human experiences.

This humiliating realization really transformed my methodology as a chef. I had to acknowledge my ignorance and embrace the opportunity to learn—not only the culinary techniques but also the fundamental essence of appreciating food and its cultural importance. This endeavor necessitated my immersion in learning, cultivating a profound appreciation for the narratives underlying each ingredient and dish. I found that food serves as a potent connection, linking individuals, locations, and customs. These trials imparted the lesson that humility, patience, and an open mind are as vital in the kitchen as any technical talent, allowing me to produce with both passion and intention.

Which city do you consider the finest for gourmet cuisine in the world?

My preferred gastronomic cities globally are Paris and Kyoto. Paris enthralls me with its profound history and dynamic culinary culture, where wine and cuisine harmoniously converge. The city showcases culinary artistry, featuring charming bistros and fine Michelin-starred restaurants, each presenting dishes that narrate a story. The harmonious combination of exquisite wines with gourmet cuisine embodies a profound enthusiasm for gastronomy that permeates the city.

Conversely, Kyoto captivates me with its deep commitment to heritage and the principle of minimalism. Culinary procedures are transformed into an art form, emphasizing a singular concentration on ingredients. The careful attention to detail, seasonal awareness, and reverence for each element produce a dining experience that is both sophisticated and profoundly cultural. These towns present a striking juxtaposition of culinary philosophies—one rooted in historical magnificence and the other in understated elegance—each uniquely influencing my culinary journey.

What are your preferred holiday places in Asia for relaxation and rejuvenation?

Thailand enchants me with its spiritual mindfulness, exquisite cuisine, and premier massage therapies. The tranquil surroundings, vibrant culture, and stunning landscapes provide an ideal setting for inner tranquility and physical revitalization.

Conversely, Malaysia is captivated by its exquisite islands and lively diving locations. Locations such as Sipadan and Mabul Island provide exceptional underwater experiences, rendering them a haven for diving aficionados. The amalgamation of unspoiled beaches, varied marine fauna, and exquisite local cuisine renders Malaysia an optimal destination for both relaxation and adventure.