St Enodoc Asparagus with Seaweed & Garlic Butt Recipe

By Paul Ainsworth. For The Love Of Food (Pavilion Book, 2024)

Image Credit: Issy Croker

‘It feels like we are spoilt here in Cornwall, with so many incredible producers around us. Among them, Jax Buse and her daughter-in-law, Natalie, in Rock cultivate St Enodoc asparagus, which stands out as a highlight. It’s the exclusive choice for asparagus across The Ainsworth Collection menus, albeit available for only four to five weeks of the year. It is quite simply the best asparagus I’ve ever eaten. When asparagus is this good, we opt for a simple preparation: steamed gently in seaweed and garlic butter. If you can’t get St Enodoc asparagus, there are some other great varieties out there. This method can be used for other vegetables, too: such as peas, pak choi, broccoli and sweetcorn.’

Serves 4; vegetarian, gluten-free and egg-free

Ingredients:

• 5g dried seaweed

• 90g unsalted butter, softened

• ½ garlic clove, finely chopped or grated

• 5g chives, chopped

• 5g flat-leaf parsley, chopped

• 1 tsp lemon juice

• Zest of ½ lemon

• Pinch of Cornish sea salt

• 2 twists of cracked black pepper

• 2 bunches of asparagus (about 16 spears)

• 120ml water

Method:

1. First, pour some warm water over the dried seaweed to rehydrate it. Then squeeze off the excess water and chop it finely.

2. Take a mixing bowl and add the butter, garlic, chives, parsley, seaweed, lemon juice and zest (retain a little zest for finishing), salt and pepper and mix well. Take a sheet of parchment paper and transfer the butter onto it, then wrap and roll into a log shape. This means you can cut consistent amounts as and when you need them.

3. Asparagus is best when in season, so there’s no need to peel it – just cut off the woody stems at the bottom.

4. Place a medium frying pan over a medium heat and add the water and 60g of the seaweed and garlic butter. Bring to the boil, whisking to emulsify the butter and water. Add the asparagus and cover with a lid. The asparagus will take about 2–3 minutes to cook. Test by piercing the thick part of the asparagus with a small knife. Once cooked, serve on a large platter in the middle of the table and spoon all the delicious seaweed butter sauce over the asparagus. Finish with a little grated lemon zest.