Fifty Two Rudding Park: A Restaurant With No Menu

Fifty Two Rudding Park in Harrogate, North Yorkshire, is revolutionising the dining experience with an unprecedented menu, vibrant ambiance, and engaging topics of conversation.

How frequently do you make restaurant reservations and premeditate your meal choices prior to your arrival? In my situation, significantly. However, at Fifty Two Rudding Park in Harrogate, the likelihood of achieving that is minimal, given the menu undergoes seasonal, and occasionally daily, alterations. The written menu will only be presented at the conclusion of the evening.

This is the essence of the North Yorkshire restaurant. Disregard pre-planning; Fifty Two emphasises enjoyment, spontaneity, and, most importantly, exceptional cuisine and beverages. Head chef Adam Degg aims to cultivate an ambiance reminiscent of a dinner party, albeit with acquaintances still to be introduced. You might become close friends by the conclusion of the evening.

Fifty Two is situated within five shipping containers on the premises of Rudding Park, which features 90 rooms and suites, as well as a spa. Appearances can be misleading; once entering the containers, one is greeted with a warmth and hospitality that contradicts their industrial facade.

The evening commences with a stroll around the magnificent gardens, which have a total of 52 beds, thus inspiring the name. Over 500 species of plants, fruits, herbs, and vegetables are cultivated here, eliminating the need for external purchases in that regard. Adam's menus are constructed seasonally and ecologically, ensuring no waste, in consultation with his colleague, Emma Pugh. She is the hotel's resident horticulturist and has been cultivating the flowerbeds for seven years. During our visit, an abundance of food had been pickled and preserved, with their vibrant plum and purple hues prominently displayed behind the kitchen pass.

Fifty Two accommodates only 20 patrons, with all seats orientated towards the kitchen, where Adam and his team of five operate. They are observed cutting, chargrilling, and meticulously arranging edible flowers on meals with accuracy. The uncertainty of what is forthcoming creates a genuine sense of anticipation as your dishes develop before you.

The 10-course lunch we experienced was preceded by appetisers featuring delectable garden rhubarb with apple and shiso, as well as Yorkshire pecorino accompanied with alliums. An apple blini accompanied by smoked roe and smoked haddock, garnished with Oscietra caviar. As I am vegetarian, my dish was substituted with cauliflower and feta cheese. And what an excellent condition it was.

Subsequently, the most delectable baked bread accompanied by cultured butters was served, followed by a succession of exquisite dishes, including Duroc ham with lobster pil pil and salt-aged venison saddle with pumpkin. My vegetable miso aubergine and choux farci, comprising parsnip, cep, and radicchio, were exceptional.

During the interlude between meals, Adam circulated among the tables, engaging with guests and addressing enquiries regarding the cuisine. Enthusiastic about highlighting the origin of his food, he acknowledged local butchers, much to the pleasure of those behind us. On the way to dessert, we enjoyed an extraordinary dish of beets accompanied by milk ice cream and blackcurrant wood. Their wizardry, or rather "saucery," was enchanting.

The evening concludes with Dessert Island Discs, when attendees are invited to submit suggestions for the spontaneous Spotify DJ session. We selected '100 Horses' by Geese as the evening transitioned into a festive ambiance. The close environment facilitates conversation with your culinary neighbours. Each table is equipped with a set of conversation-starting cards featuring questions such as, ‘What was your childhood aspiration?’ or ‘Would you prefer to eat your favourite meal exclusively or forgo it entirely?’

The dishes and beverages serve as discussion initiators in their own right. The desserts included gooseberry folly accompanied by caramelised white chocolate and a brown butter custard tart, one of the rare hallmark dishes on Adam's menu, concluded with warm Madeleines. Throughout the courses, the innovative beverages continued to be served. We consumed a Black Velvet crafted with Tattinger, miso, and stout, as well as a Limon produced in partnership with the Cold Bath Brewery in Harrogate. The selection included wines from Georgia and Spain, as well as a local Slingsby gin and rhubarb beverage.

Fortunately, we were residing in Rudding Park, and it was merely a stroll down a path to our accommodation. The hotel offers outstanding amenities, featuring a gym and an excellent rooftop spa equipped with a sauna, hydrotherapy pool, sunlight treatment, and an oxygen room. Prior to our departure, akin to a dinner party, exquisite decanters were presented for self-service to take along. Upon receiving a hand-signed menu from Adam, we poured sloe gin over ice and toasted to our fantastic evening and gracious host.

RESERVATION

Fifty Two Rudding Park operates from Wednesday to Sunday. Prices vary from £85 per individual for six courses to £190 per individual for ten servings, inclusive of drink pairings. fiftytworuddingpark.co.uk