New York's Most Renowned Vegan Restaurant Is Reintroducing Meat
- Isabelle Jardin
- Aug 14
- 3 min read
Updated: Aug 20
In 2022, Eleven Madison Park achieved the distinction of being the first vegan restaurant globally to obtain three Michelin stars. This week, Eleven Madison Park has announced the official end of its vegan era.
Meat is going back to the menu at Eleven Madison Park
Beginning 14 October, Eleven Madison Park (EMP) will reinstate certain animal products. A comprehensive plant-based menu will remain accessible, while patrons will also have the option to order fish and meat, including the classic honey-lavender-glazed duck.
A statement from Humm states: ‘Upon reopening Eleven Madison Park in 2021, following the shutdown, we committed to reconstructing our approach: to create a dinner that is equally transcendent as before, devoid of any animal products.’ The judgment represented an innovative breakthrough and a necessity for climate action.
He states: ‘Throughout the past five years, with each season and new menu we have introduced, we have been diligently attentive to our guests’ feedback.’ It became evident that although we had created something significant, we had also inadvertently excluded individuals. This contradicts our conception of hospitality.
“As I near my 20th anniversary at EMP, I have resolved that it is time for a change once more.”
Humm became a member of EMP in 2006 and subsequently acquired the establishment from previous owner Danny Meyer in 2011, in partnership with general manager Will Guidara. The duo collectively converted the venue into one of the city's most esteemed fine dining establishments, and in 2017, it was awarded the top position in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants accolades. Two years later, Guidara chose to depart from EMP, with both parties referencing 'divergent long-term ambitions for the company.'
The decision to adopt a vegan lifestyle occurred following the pandemic. EMP faced imminent bankruptcy, a daunting period for Humm that simultaneously motivated him to redirect the restaurant in an unexpected manner. He was motivated by environmental and animal welfare concerns, while also perceiving the transition to a meat-free diet as an intriguing creative endeavor. “We have consistently acted with awareness of our environmental impact,” he stated at the time, “yet it was increasingly evident that the existing food system is fundamentally unsustainable in numerous respects.”
In June 2021, EMP resumed operations with an innovative menu featuring plant-based cuisine, including Japanese 'land caviar' crafted from dry seeds, sunflower butter, egg-free meringue, and almond milk ricotta. Critiques were varied. Some critics were harsh, with Pete Wells of the Times disclosing that the restaurant contained a clandestine meat area, allegedly serving beef, roast chicken, and lobster to exclusive patrons, while others praised Humm's innovative, environmentally-conscious philosophy.
Nevertheless, Humm has determined that it is time for another transformation. The New York Times reports that financial difficulties are partly responsible for the decline in private event bookings at EMP since its transition to a vegan menu, as well as a decrease in wine sales, since 'grand cru is typically paired with meat' for wine connoisseurs. This indicates widespread tendencies, as other vegan restaurants in New York have recently ceased operations, including Cadence in the East Village and Modern Love in Brooklyn. Likewise, London's vegan restaurant landscape is diminishing, as evidenced by the closures of Neat Burger, supported by Lewis Hamilton, along with Deliciously Ella's Plants by DE and The Vurger Co in recent years.
Ultimately, Humm's objective is to enhance the inclusivity of EMP. “I firmly believed in the all-in approach, but I was unaware that it would result in the exclusion of individuals,” he stated. I harbor concerns that some may label me a hypocrite; nonetheless, I recognize that the most effective means of promoting plant-based cuisine is to encourage inclusive participation at the table.
The revised menu will continue to present seven to nine dishes for $365.
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